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Chartered Accountant by profession, foodie at heart, traveler by passion, amateur photographer by love for nature and decently good rider/driver to travel with.

Saturday, August 22, 2015

Highest bungee jump in India, craziest white water rafting and much more.. Welcome to Rishikesh

Bungee jumping” The two words together are enough to get the blood pumping in your dormant veins and you instinctively say “YES” when a friend invites you for a trip to experience the highest bungee jump in India. This was a trip with extreme adventure in a relatively short span of two days in the month of May 2015. These two days lead me to my first ever bungee jump and an extreme river rafting session in the lap of Mother Nature. It was a trip of ups and downs in the holy land of Rishikesh but now I can unwind and write about the experience.

 The trip began with a pre-booked flight from Mumbai to Delhi on the evening of May 01, 2015 with my colleague Viren and his friend Pratik. We had pre-booked the tickets for an overnight luxury bus service from Delhi to Rishikesh at 11 pm. The bus took off at midnight from Anand Vihar (Opposite Pacific Mall) and we made it to Rishikesh bus station at around 6.30 am. Rishikesh bus station is nearly 3-4 kms away from the main Rishikesh tourist area but it’s fairly easy to hire a rickshaw (three wheeler public vehicle) to take you to the hub/town near Laxman Jhula.

We reached our pre-booked hotel by 7.00 am and were refused early check-in so our dreams of getting a peaceful few hours of sleep were shattered. Nevertheless, the excitement of a long river rafting session in a few hours was overwhelming. We dumped our bags in the hotel & took off for a morning walk along the banks of river Ganga (Ganges).

The Beautiful first view of Holy Maa Ganga

Ram Jhula

Ram Jhula - from the other end

We ended up at Sita Ghat which is on other side of Ram Jhula

It was a beautiful view all around and it was a special moment when I first felt the cold water of River Ganga (considered to be the holiest of the rivers in India). I quickly made a few calls back home to inform my whereabouts and also pass on the blessings from Maa Ganaga to my loved ones. We were enjoying the early morning breeze & sound of peaceful Ganges in front of us while people were enjoying their early morning dip in the holy river or a jog on the banks as well. I decided that  next time, I’ll definitely indulge in a long walk followed by a fresh dip in the water.

The beach - riverside


Holy water - cant get any purer than this 




We lost track of time and we had to rush back to our hotel as we were scheduled for a 24 km long river rafting session at 9 am. We were allotted a room where we quickly freshened up, changed and got in a cab waiting for us to take us to the rafting start point. We made a brief halt at the rafting main office near Laxman Jhula to quickly sign off the mandatory waiver forms and we were hurried off to the rafting start location in another vehicle with our raft mounted on its rooftop.

Some information on Rafting at Rishikesh.

There are numerous rafting service operators/agents in Rishikesh who will help you enroll in one of the rafting options in Rishikesh.

To simplify the rafting options, one can simply differentiate them by the distance or duration of time you will spend in the water.

Each rafting option begins at a distance from Rishikesh and ends at Rishikesh. There are four well known rafting options summarized in table below:

Start Point
Distance in Kms (Approx.)
Approx Time in Hours
Grades
Suitable for
Brahmapuri
8 - 10
1.5 – 2.5
II, III
Children
Shivpuri
16 - 17
3 - 4
II, III, III plus
Beginners
Marine Drive
25 - 27
4 – 5
II, III, IV
Experienced
Kaudaliya
35 - 36
7 – 8
II, III, IV, IV plus
Expert

The water rapids are classified in different grades as follows by Rishikesh Tourism website: Rishikeshtourism.in


River Water Grade 

Grade I : Easy, small waves. No obstacles.
Grade II : Moderate difficulty with clear passages.
Grade III : Difficult, high irregular waves, narrow passages require precise maneuvering. 
Grade IV : Difficult, powerful waves. Very precise maneuvering required. 
Grade V : Extremely difficult, violent, highly congested. 


Note:

i. The “Approx. Time” includes travelling time from Rishikesh to Rafting point by vehicle and back to Rishikesh.

ii. The suitability of different rafting options is purely dependent on one’s physical condition and appetite for adventure. In my opinion, most people with decent physical condition can manage upto grade IV.

iii. As on May 2015, the cost of rafting varies from INR 400 – 1000 (including rafting vehicle drop charges to rafting point) for different rafting routes.

iv. Though it is not advisable, but you can carry essential stuff like mobile phones, cameras, loose cash etc with you and keep it in a “DRY bag” which is available in all the rafts and get it back at the end of rafting.

Getting back to our rafting experience, we introduced ourselves to 5 young lads who were gonna be our rafting partners for today as we were driven through curvy mountain roads for nearly an hour to reach the start point. The SUV carrying 10 of us ( 8 rafters & 2 rafting guides) was driven swiftly towards our destination and we could see the white water of river Ganges on our right side throughout the drive. We passed by the river rafting start points of Brahmapuri & Shivpuri and made it to Marine Drive by 10.00 am. We were given life vests, helmets and rafting paddles while the raft was lowered from vehicle to the banks of river.

Viren & Pratik - Aside our Raft on the SUV carrying us till marine drive 
& we suited up


After a quick safety check by rafting instructors for all the participants, it was time for a quick 5-10 minutes instruction session by the lead rafting guide. He explained to us in brief the common instructions he was going to shout out aloud and what we were supposed to do against each of those instructions which were fairly simple to understand and implement. We were asked to keep our valuables in the “Dry bag” as we got inside the raft and explained the basics of proper seating positions and paddling techniques.

Once everyone was settled in their positions, the rafting instructors asked us to seek blessings of River Ganges and we all shouted out aloud together “Ganga mayya ki jai”

Thats the rest of our crew - funny guys they were

Now this was the first ever rafting experience for me while almost all of participants in the raft had some prior experience with rafting. Considering this, I should have been sitting at a comparatively safe position in middle or the end of raft. However, when the rafting instructor asked who wants to lead the raft, I instinctively seized the opportunity and found myself right in front seat of a mighty adventure. Thankfully, Viren who had some good prior rafting experience was also in the front seat and he assured me that this is the best position to enjoy the rafting.

The rafting began at around 10:30 am and it was a breath-taking experience when the raft collided with some small rapids. I adjusted and re-adjusted my sitting position until I was comfortable enough and by then we started getting some fantastic grade II & III rapids. All of us were drenched in cold water and we loved it. The lead instructor sat at the end of raft and navigated wonderfully while giving us instructions and variety of information such as number of rapids we are going to encounter, grade of rapids and the interesting names of the rapids.

Soon enough, there was a wonderful grade I rapid (Body surfing) and the instructor asked us to jump in the river and hold the raft while half submerged in the river. This was a wonderful experience we thoroughly enjoyed for a few minutes before getting back in the rafts.

Viren was quickly off the raft

Pratik followed next - in a much holier form (We call this pic as Babaji walking on water)

I jumped too - slipped on take off though

Rapids after rapids were crossed and we were covering good distance in no time. People in the back of raft were not enjoying as much as in the front so the rafting positions were changed every now & then so that all of us get equal chance to face the rapids from the front. It was a tiring experience for sure as paddling swiftly in the forceful water was not an easy task but the instructor did a wonderful job with regular breaks to regain the energy and allowing us to take a dip in the freezing river wherever it was safe.

Adventure 1 - Done

And we Float

Smiles all around

We were almost at the end of our rafting stretch when we saw herds of and people and various rafts gathered at the right hand side corner of the river. We were explained that this was a cliff jumping point where anyone who wishes to can climb on a decent cliff and jump in the flowing river. Looked pretty fun & simple from afar as people jumped happily one after another and we all rushed to do the same. Carrying some money with you is important at this juncture since there are a variety of small vendors on the bank of river serving all kinds of mouth watering snacks ( Maggie noodles, corn, bhajiyas, pakodas etc) and something to quench the thirst (water, tea, coffee, lime juice etc)  as well after a rigorous rafting session so far. This is where you need the cash, so better carry some.

There were small waterfalls as well
There was a huge unregulated queue leading up to the biggest of the cliff. It took me 10 minutes but finally it was my turn to jump and that’s when most of the people (including me) skip a heartbeat. The seemingly simple and not so large cliff jump suddenly turns into a intimidating jump when you see the huge river from atleast 20 feet above. Anyway, I didn’t have much time to react as there was herd of crowd waiting behind me so I had to back off or jump on. And jump on I did, and what a jump it was. The life jacket gets you to the surface in no time but still you are left well out of breath, although with a huge grin on your face. All of us repeated the cliff jump again in order to get the moments captured on video as well.

Scared - before the jump


that's how high it was (Random pic -That's not me)

We got back to our raft by 12.30 pm and made it to the end of rafting session after crossing some small rapids by 1.00 pm. The instructors asked us to help carry the raft uphill from the river banks to the road and we did so. The raft was loaded in another vehicle and we were driven for 10 minutes to the reach the rafting office near Laxman Jhula (Rishikesh).

The entire team - at the rafting end point

We slowly walked towards our hotel which was another 1-2 kms away and stopped for a quick lunch session on the way to have some delicious much needed food.

The afternoon was reserved for a well-deserved sleep after a sleepless last night. We had planned to visit one of the evening aartis’s (prayers) at a temple on the banks of river but we could get out of the hotel only after sunset and missed the chance of attending the holy ceremony. Nevertheless, we decided to visit Laxma Jhula and surrounding areas and enjoy a cup of coffee at one of the beautiful cafe at the edge of the hill overlooking the river.

Temple on the way to Laxman Jhula
The beautiful temple at sunset
People were still river rafting well past sunset
The rigorous amount of energy you need to put in for a long river rafting session was pretty evident with paining muscles all around the body and it was a tiring affair to get back to the hotel after a long walk. We were supposed to be in good shape for another exhilarating session of adventure tomorrow so we decided to get some rest and call it a day.

Next morning was just another day but one of the most meaningful days of my life. I was about to embark upon a uncharted journey and encounter variety of emotions previously unknown to me. It was a day when there will be certain moments when I was most alive and felt every breath was worth enjoying and making the most of. Today, I jump form 272 feet in the air with nothing but a giant rubber band tied on my legs and a sense of faith in my heart.

Something about bungee jumping and other much coveted activities at Rishikesh apart from river rafting

A quick search on Rishikesh tourism website reveals the following:

Bungee jumping in Rishikesh is the highest bungee jumping facility in India at 83 meters (272 feet) which is designed and operated on a daily basis by professionals from New Zealand and ex-Indian army officers. Apart from Bungee jumping, there are a couple of other milder activities like Giant swing from 83 meters and flying fox. These doses of extreme adventure are provided under a banner of “Jumping heights” which is the only one of its kind in Rishikesh. The booking process is fairly simple as you have a online advance payment options and booking a jump slot in advance. We had numerous conversations & email exchanges with the Jumping Heights personnel who were courteous & thoroughly helpful throughout the process. A noteworthy thing is that these guys have had thousands of jumps with zero accidents so far and that’s all because of their intense care for safety and zero tolerance for errors. I’ve been through a decent share of adventurous activities in India but the safety checks at this place were top notch in comparison with any other places in India.  The rates for different activities as on May 2015 were as follows:

Bunjee jump – INR 3000
Giant Swing – INR 2500
Flying fox – INR 1500 (if done with two other people) or INR 2500 (solo)
All three – INR 6500
Note: there are also combo discounts for any two activities
Video & certificate charges – INR 750 per activity and further discounts for 2/3 activities DVD

Back to our Bunjee experience

We got ready quickly by 8 am and set out of the hotel for the adventure. We reached the bunjee jumping office by 8.15 am only to be disappointed. We had pre-booked our adventure package session but we were not informed about pre-booking the transportation from Rishikesh to the Bunjee station which is approx. 25 kms in a small village known as Mohan Chatti. Jumping Heights also provide the transportation in form of their private AC buses from Rishikesh to Bunjee station and back for a nominal sum of INR 250. The problem is that all these buses were to be pre-booked as well, especially if you are travelling on a weekend. We were told to reach bunjee station by 9 am but we had no transportation. So I set out on the streets to negotiate a deal with local cabs/rickshaws while my friends continued requesting the guys at jumping heights office to help us.

The local cabs were quoting outrageous amount so we decided to rent bikes and ride there ourselves. After a reasonable search, I located a dealer and struck a deal for two scooters (a nominal price of INR 700 for both) and we were all set to roll by 9.00 am after completing the rental formalities. The guys at Jumping heights office were kind enough to provide us a quick direction instruction and a location map for our convenience.

And we Ride the mountains.. Thats Adventure in itself

After a quick and wonderful ride through the narrow mountain roads of Rishikesh, we made it to Jumping Heights office at Mohan Chatti. 

That exhilarating first view - See the yellow thingy on the left side just below the board

The nerves were taking over and the heart was beating faster with excitement. I knew we were late so I rushed straight to the booking office and I was turned away in a second by the staff. They said that bungee jumping slots for the day were all booked and no more slots available. I explained our situation & a fact that we had made advance reservations with partial advance payment as well. We were promptly introduced to the operations manager Mr. Dev who was co-operative enough to let us complete the activities since we had pre-booked but the problem was that we were told that it will take atleast 3-4 pm for our turn for the jump. It was a devastating news and I explained him that I have a flight to catch at 4.00 pm from Dehradun but he expressed his inability to help. 

However, as a consolation, he offered us to complete Giant Swing and Flying Fox immediately and maybe give up on Bunjee jumping since we were short on time. The formalities were done and balance money was paid for all three activities. While we were waiting our turn, I received an SMS which was third and biggest shock of the day. My 4.00 pm flight from Dehradun to Delhi was re-scheduled to 7.00 pm. I was furious at the last minute re-scheduling as I also had a connecting 8.00 pm flight from Delhi to Mumbai. While I was pondering over options & recovering from the situation, it was time for Giant Swing so we had to rush to the bunjee station leaving all our stuff (mobiles, wallets etc) back in the bunjee office. By 11 pm, we were at the actuall bunjee jump station queued up behind 10 other seemingly nervous people awaiting their turn to jump.

The Jumping experience.

The jumping bridge is approximately half a kilometre away from the jumping office (where you book a jump slot, pay the cash, get some light food and wait your turn) Each participant is weighed & the weights are noted on their hands with markers before you walk to the jump bridge. A group of approximately 10-15 people is present at any period of time at the other end of jump bridge who are sent one after another based on their weight categories. The concept is simple as they have three different categories of bunjee ropes for three categories of weights and they try to clear all people of same weight category before changing the ropes.

The actual jump bridge is same for bunjee jump as well as giant swing so these jumps are performed alternatively one after another. I was the first one from our group to walk down from the holding area to the jumping point and the feeling was nothing but exhilarating. I was greeted by one of the operators at the jumping end of the bridge who explained me about the safety features, how will be the experience of jump, where I will feel the strains during by jump, how to relax and take the leap etc. All the while I was being explained and harnessed up, my focus was on the guy who was just about to do the bungee jump before by turn for giant swing. It was scary to see someone jump off the bridge merely a few feet away from me. My body harness and weight was reconfirmed by a senior operator before I was slowly escorted to the end of bridge where I was given some final words of advice and asked to pose for the camera while I was seated on a small podium just at the end of the bridge. The moment is always etched in your memory when you first see the vastness of open space and nothing between you and the grandeur of nature apart from a petty rope tied to your chest. From heron, there is no turning back and you just wait for the countdown from the instructors. Three.. Two.. One. Go…

Well in my case, I never got to hear One.. and Go.. as I was already off the bridge by the time instructor shouted Two.. The jump itself was literally a leap of faith in all its sense for the fact that there is definitely a free-fall of few seconds, when you skip a heartbeat or two and just hang on to the dear rope wishing for the free fall to stop. Although it’s just a matter of few seconds before the free fall is broken, and then you are hanging on a rope swinging at good speed from one end of the valley to the other. You get your breath back and suddenly you are shouting out aloud on top of your voice declaring the successful completion of jump to no one but yourself and probably your nervous friends at the other end of the bridge awaiting their turn next. After a few swings, the pace of the swing cools off and you are lowered to the rocky dry river bed, where there are official people ready to guide you down to the safety. The process takes just over a minute but that’s one of the most lively minutes of your life for sure. When on ground, you are helped to quickly get out of the harness and provided a bottle of mineral water and a neat small badge stating “I’ve got guts”.

Enough words, lets watch the jump video..




Then begins the heartbeat recovery process while you wait for your friends and once we all were re-grouped, there were nothing but smiling faces all around. We were informed by the operators on the ground to trek uphill through a specific path which leads directly to the bungee office. It was a tiring climb of over 20 minutes and we were back in bungee office by 11.30 am.

Next, we were greeted again by the operations manager and the staff who asked us to be seated and wait for our next turn for flying fox. I was troubled with the thoughts of my cancelled flight and I was wondering about the various options. After waiting for half an hour, a slot opened up for bunjee jump and luckily I was sitting right in front of the reception so when I was asked if I would like to jump well before the expected time, it was the only unexpected miracle I needed for the day.

I passed on the good news to my friends and we were quickly on our way to the jump bridge again, this time for the bungee jump. We went through the same process yet again of waiting and watching people before us jumping off one by one until it was our turn. When my call for jump arrived, I was more happy then nervous as I had lost hopes for the bunjee jump due to the my flight issues but here I was actually on the brink of my jump. The main harness was tied to the legs this time with a secondary body harness while I was greeted by the jump operators and given a separate set of instructions.

All the while, a funny yet scary incident was going on in the background and I can’t help but mention it here. Well the jump operators have a nice little music setup at the end of jump bridge where they prepare the people for jump. Usually the songs that were played were all fast paced popular Hindi/English songs to keep everyone up there in high spirits and pumped up, but just when it was our turn to do the freaking bungee jump, the song that was being played was a popular hindi song titled “Ibn-e-batuta” from movie “Ishqiya”. Usually the song is a charming and a fantastic mood setting song but it contains a line which says the following:

Agle mod pe, maut khadi hai (Death is standing on the next turn)
Arey marne ki bhi, kya jaldi hai (what’s the hurry to die ?)

Well, that’s the last thing you would like to listen just before an upside down jump from 272 feet in the air, with your fate hanging in the quality of an elastic rope. Fortunately, for us we were an optimistic bunch of idiots and there was no turning back now.

Martina the jump instructor greeted me and certainly helped a bit with her charm to divert the fear with her precise instructions and a joyous way of conducting the operations up there. I remember her asking me to not think much before the jump and I instinctively answered that I’ll give her one of the best jumps of the day. She was all smiles and shook my hand saying “that’s a deal”

After all the safety checks in place, I was escorted to the edge with 1/4th of my shoes off the edge. Just one look down was enough to say to myself WTF are you doing dude. But, there’s a yellow spot right in front of your eyes at a distance and I was asked to focus on it and jump towards it rather then looking straight down. The countdown began again, three.. two.. one.. go

Well, I cannot describe the feeling in words. You really need to feel it. The best of the writers cannot describe the feeling for you, let alone a part time hobby blogger like me do it. I can only advise, no, I insist to try it once in your lifetime (of-course if you are physical and emotionally fit, and you do the jump at a right place like this with high regards for safety) A video will be able to describe the experience better. I hope it motivates at least a few of the readers to consider it on their bucket list.





Next, the operators at the river bed guide you down to safety and let you rest on a flat bed while they unhook you off your safety harnesses. As opposed to the popular notion, there are no bruises to your legs or any sprain in your legs or spine. The only noticeable problem for most people after the jump are red eyes and a light dizzy head which is a temporary phenomenon due to excess of blood flow to your head. The only thing difficult after this bungee jump is the tedious hike uphill and back to the jumping office.

We decided to skip the flying fox as we wanted to end the adventure on a high note and not spoil the adrenaline rush that bungee jump provided us. We met the operations manager, thanked him for his support and decided to leave ASAP. I got busy on calls with numerous flight agents to cancel my existing flights and re-book new flights while my buddies finished the formalities and got our jump DVD’s and certificates. We bid goodbye to the lovely place by 2.00 pm and as we left, I just wished there were more of these all round India.

It was a quick ride back to rishikesh where we dropped off our rented scooters, picked up our luggage and left for the bus stop. 

The valley


The roads 


Sadly, it was end of wonderful 2 days of adventure for me as I shook hands and said goodbyes to Viren and Pratik while they continued to their adventure in Nainital (Paragliding) and Jim Corbett national park (wild life safari). Luckily, I found a state transport bus leaving for Delhi and I took it against all advice of fellow local travelers. It was one hell of a drive and another adventure in itself as I could find a seat right behind the bus driver who drove to glory at high speeds and blazing loud horns for the next 10 hours while I rested my tired legs on the hot engine compartment of the bus.

I was told that these state buses take a long time to reach delhi and hence I played it safe and booked a flight from Delhi to Mumbai for 10.00 am next day to leave ample margin of error this time.

Without any further incident, the bus came to a screeching halt at the Kashmere gate ISBT delhi by 1.00 am. I had another 9 hours to kill before my flight from delhi so I decided to avoid night travel to airport and stay at the bus terminal which was fairly huge, crowded and perfectly safe. I couldn’t sleep so I googled for best ways to reach airport and I found it. There were regular airport AC buses from ISBT to airport and after a bit of inquiry and waiting around, I was in one such airport bus on my way to airport.

It was gonna be a tough task to get inside the airport so early before the flight and rightly so the security turned me away. I slept off on a steel chair in the waiting area until I could get inside the airport departure gates by 5.00 am. After some irregular sleep on separate seats all around the airport area, I finally boarded the plane at 9.30 am and quickly dozed off. Landed in Mumbai at 12.00 pm, made it home by 1.00 pm and got out on the road again by 2.00 pm to catch my first ever international flight to Sri Lanka in next few hours. Tired and exhausted as I was, this was on helluva trip and the experience I took away from it would always stay close to my heart for the rest of my life. On bright side, more adventure awaits, in Sri Lanka.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Dudhsagar waterfalls on Bikes.. well, almost there..

It was a big day today with some huge surprises in store for us. We all got up quite early by 6 am for the next destination which was a huge dream come true for me. Ashwin told us that we'll be going to "Dudhsagar" today and while most others were clueless, just the word “Dudhsagar” was enough for me. Ashwin was surprised that I'm aware about Dudhsagar waterfalls. I began to google the route only to find it was gonna be a long ride. All the more reason for me to cheer.

Some customary information on dudhsagar waterfalls: 

What: “Dudh” means “milk” and “sagar” means “Ocean or Sea”. Do the math yourself by imagining these two words simultaneously. For some, it may sound like exaggeration but to me, the waterfall stands true to its name, especially in the monsoons. 

For those travelers who appreciate a piece of old heritage and a story behind the places you visit, Dudhsagar presents its own story as per Goa Tourism

“The legend tells the story of this powerful and wealthy king who ruled a kingdom in the Western Ghats. His lavish and opulent palace in the hills was surrounded by vast gardens which were full of deers and gazelles.

The King had a beautiful daughter, who used to enjoy taking a bath during the hot summers, in the picturesque lake near the forest on the edge of the King's palace grounds. It was her habit to finish her bath and have a jugful of sugared milk in a jug made of pure gold.

One day when she was finishing her usual jug of milk she found herself being watched by a handsome prince standing amongst the trees. Embarassed by her inadequate bathing attire, the resourceful Princess poured the sugared milk in front of her to form an improvised curtain to hide her body, while one of the maids rushed to cover her with a dress.

Thus was the legend born. The sugared milk (dudh) poured down the mountainside and continued to flow in torrents as a tribute to the everlasting virtue and modesty of the Princess of the Ghats. The Dudh Sagar (Sea of Milk) continues to flow to this day and attracts thousands of visitors to one of the most popular and famous tourist spots in the state of Goa.”

Moving from the stories to the facts, it is one of the tallest waterfalls in India, (technically 6th tallest as per Wikipedia). 

Where: Dudhsagar waterfalls is approximately 70 kms from Panaji and a good 2-3 hour drive away from most of Goa. Dudhsagar waterfalls are located at the southern border of Goa and north-west border of Karnataka. It is a part of the lesser known Bhagwaan Mahaveer sanctuary in the Konkan.

Kulem, Colem and Mollem - Nearest towns.
Season: Monsoon (July – October) Depending on the rainfall

Food: Very limited options, you are better off packing your lunch or depend on some light snacks.

Reach: Well, here comes the tricky part. Like most beautiful and divine places, this one is not that simple to reach either. That being said, there are multiple ways in which anyone can choose to enjoy the beauty of this heavenly waterfall based on your preferences. I’ll list most of them I’m aware about, starting from the most comfortable/convenient first.

Option 1 – Train/Railways
For most tourists, this is easily the most popular way to reach dudhsagar waterfalls. If you start from Goa, you have options to catch early morning train from Vasco or margaon to reach Dudhasagar waterfalls. For those who just want to witness the beauty of dudhsagar from train without getting close and personal, they can return back from the next station to goa. The adventurous people can get down at the station (Kulem or Sonalium or castle rock) and trek further to dudhsagar for enjoying in one of the small pools of water formed by the dudhsagar falls at the base.

There is an official dudhsagar station but officially not many trains stop there. However, unofficially a lot of these passing trains do stop for a minute or so for people to get down or get onboard. For accurate train timings, better inquire with local folks, travel agents or Goa Tourism offices.

Most avid trekkers may consider trekking to dudhsagar waterfalls and camping overnight as a good option but since it basically involves train travel, it is included in option 1 for me.

Option 2 - By Road 
If you seek more adventure, this is the one for you. Take the following route from Goa for Dudhsagar 

North Goa (Calangute) – Panaji -  Old Goa – Ponda – Mollem - Colem (Approx 75 kms)

South Goa (Cancona) – Bali – Kakoda – Kulem  - Colem (Approx 65 kms)

After a good 3 hour drive on decent goan roads, you will reach the end of roads at Colem (Also spelt Collem) and dudhsagar waterfall is approximately 12-14 kms away from this place. These kms are to be traveled on a rough and wild forest trail with virtually no roads whatsoever. This is where the fun begins as you will cross multiple rivers, go through lush green jungles and end up at the base beyond which your good old legs will have to do the rest for the last kilometre. Unfortunately, this trail is not advisable to be driven with a normal car (hatchback or sedan) and it is most suited only for SUV’s or MUV’s preferably four wheel drive. Even if you happen to have a SUV/MUV, it will take a good deal of off-roading skill to make it to the end without any incidences. 

Fortunately, the tourist department offers this experience with a fleet of tourist SUV’s/Jeeps from local taxi union to take you to the waterfalls and back at a nominal cost. Each SUV/Jeep ordinarily seats 6 people and charges around 2500 (The charges may change from time to time but are fixed by taxi union so no bargaining required) plus nominal entry charges to forest area. The drive from Colem to Dudhasagar will rattle you to the core but the views all the way and especially at the end will more than make up for it. Watch out for the cold water as your vehicles crosses many rivers on the way. These SUV/Jeep service is not offered during monsoon and is usually available December to April/May based on the flow of water streams.

Option 3
Well, this is basically Option 2, only with 2 changes. 
1. This option can be exercised in the best season to visit the dudhsagar waterfalls, during monsoon when the waterfall is in its full glory
2. This option involves travelling on ‘Two Wheels Only’ – Motorbikes

No you don’t have to ride your motorbikes yourself, there are other much capable people to do it for you while you hold on tight to the backseat of their motorbike and enjoy one of the best adventures of your lives.  Or, you can simply close your eyes and pray, if that helps.

This may not be an official or certified way of travel to dudhsagar but this is the only way to travel from Colem to Dudhsagar during monsoons.

As you reach the end of the roads at colem, there will be many local lads with their bikes ready to take you onboard their bike for a to-and-fro journey to dudhsagar waterfall. The charges will range from Rs. 500-800 based on the tourist rush. These guys know their job well and they ride quite fast in those difficult terrains since their earnings depend on the number of trips they take per day which may range from 2-3 trips at most per day.

Option 4
If Option 3 wasn’t adventurous or thrilling enough for you, let’s modify it a bit and call it option 4. This is the option which we took but NOT ADVISABLE for most people. More on this later.

Enough of Gyaan, Back to our trip.
We were on the road by 7.30 am on August 17, 2011and it was raining every now and then as it had been raining all along since yesterday. The climate was fun to ride along on the beautiful south goan roads early in morning. After a short break for some local breakfast, we were at colem by 10.30 am to find ourselves at the start of the long off road journey to the dudhsagar waterfalls. 
A beautiful church on our way
While on road, aim for Collem or Mollem

Myself in Yellow with others just before the epic adventure today, including cameraman
Large tree mushrooms
As it was a monsoon season, there were no SUV’s awaiting for us. Instead, some guys on bikes approached us and inquired if we wanted to go to dudhsagar. Upon inquiry, we were quoted Rs 500 per person and we were surprised as we didn’t know the prices back then. We decided to take our own bikes instead but all the local guys strictly advised against it stating we won’t be able to handle the rough slushy terrain and the rage of rivers especially on our two under powered Honda Activa scooters. They had a point, a valid one for the under-powered scooters but I was fully confident on our bikes and ourselves to make it to the top, come what may. Luckily, Ashwin was equally confident so we came with an insane plan to leave both the Activa scooters behind and take both the bikes. 

Now two bikes for seven young lads was a bad equation so we coined another insane idea, ride triple seat. The decision was upto me and Ashwin since we both were to do the riding and surprisingly both of us felt it was easily doable, even with triple seats. The local guys had a good laugh with our insane plan of riding ourselves all the way, especially triple seat. As expected, they tried to do their best to convince us for giving up on the seemingly suicide mission but it was too late to change our minds. Six people on two bikes and the heaviest of us will take the services of one of the local lads who can also serve as a guide to us. Without further delay, we started our journey and in no time we knew we were in for a ride of our lives.

We were immediately riding alongside a small pathway of a single railway track. It was indeed bit difficult to ride triple seat on the small path with no margin of error as there were multiple railway line rocks to misbalance you on the small path and a few feet of drop on the other side. The occasional fallen trees and huge stone boulders would require all passengers to get off the bike and help the riders to get through the hurdles. It was difficult but we all were thoroughly enjoying the ride so far. After almost half an hour, the first real challenge was upon us as our bike guide asked all of the passengers to get off the bikes and cross railway tracks on feet to meet us all a few metres ahead.  Meanwhile, we three riders were supposed to get off the path aside railway track and descend to free flowing rivers below the railway bridge. Then, ride across the river to reach the opposite side of railway tracks. Sound simple but it tested our mettle as the machines cried in the force of chilling water stuck under hurdles of rocks. I was paranoid at first but watching our guide and Ashwin make it to the other side with little discomfort, I made it across the river in one breath with sole aim to not let the engine die while in water. The sound of the free flowing river combined with the huge roar of the bike on high RPM under the railway bridge was price priceless.

Frankly, that was it. The most difficult part was done. Not that the road ahead was any simpler to ride on but the journey so far prepared the mind-set in such a way that everything ahead seemed a tad simpler. It was a proper jungle trail wide enough to fit a car throughout most of the journey with lush green trees on both sides. 
Lets start with a pic of me riding through simplest of the jungle trail
The only real challenge was crossing the multiple rivers every now and then which I did with or without one or both of the pillions depending on the judgement.
Adventurous ladies in the background - Hats off to them
 Apart from the rivers, the slush and slippery loose soil was another factor to watch out for as it was difficult to maintain any sort of traction due to continuous rains throughout our journey. We had our own share of falls and bruises due to this slippery slush but we encountered no grave damage to men, machines or our spirit. 

The avenger goes down 
They were all in pain and laughter at the same time as i got down and clicked
Pretty soon, I go down with 2 others on the Pulsar 
The enthusiasm only got higher as we crossed river after river and got close to the beauty that lay ahead of us. I reckon it would have been at least 3 hours into the ride when we came to cross one last river beyond which there were many bikes parked and it seemed we had arrived at the destination.
I was riding Pulsar for a change since Ashwin wanted to try Avenger - Wrong place to switch bikes
The trail leading to the gates of heaven
And the gate itself
One of the first clear views of the glorious waterfalls

Sadly, there were a few more rivers to cross on foot before we could reach the actual waterfall but the flow of these rivers was way beyond the safe limits so none of the local lads tried risking further and we had to respect the Mother Nature as well. The dudhsagar waterfall seemed to be quite afar but nevertheless we had some splendid views of the waterfall in its full glory.

A group pic near the last river
So near yet so far
A make-shift podium to get a clear view of waterfalls amidst the trees


Best one for the last
So we 'ALMOST' made it to the waterfalls on our bikes but it was 'so near yet so far' situation for us which left all of us frankly a bit disappointed. However, there's always another time.

After some photos, we decided to rush back as the rainfall was getting heavier since last few hours and our guide was getting very apprehensive by now. The return journey was quite a swift one until we reached a river which looked like it had no intention to let us cross. Our guiding rider declared it is impossible to cross the river at current flow and it will be wise to wait an hour for the rains to subsidize before we make a move. That wasn’t the best of the ideas, but it made sense. Afterall, how do we ride across this nature's fury?
Clueless
Thus began the long wait, amidst heavy rainfall and a raging river right in front of us. There were riders on the opposite side of the river who couldn’t cross to our side and eventually returned back as they had the luxury to turn back unlike us. It was well beyond 4.30 pm and we were running out of patience. 
Tired and HELPLESS
The mosquitoes were killing us and we were dying of hunger since the last bite of food we had was light breakfast early in the morning. Some of us decided to check out the river flow on feet while supporting each other. I was one of the people in the group entering the water as we all held each other’s shoulders and slowly made our way into the middle of the river. The force was still very strong and it was difficult to stand alone in the water without any support, let alone ride with a heavy motorcycle horizontally across the river. However, our guide came up with a suggestion to lift up the bikes one by one and make it across the river instead of riding the bikes. 

Some of us were apprehensive initially but the time and patience was running out so we all decided to go for it. We decided to start with the heaviest bike and it took 7 of us to somehow manage to get the bike across the river. It was more difficult than it looks.
Attempt 1 - Lets Go

Half way through



And we're done
After transferring the first bike across the river, we all were charged up and transferred the other lighter bikes quite conveniently. We also helped a fellow traveler's bike on other side to cross over so we moved 4 bikes in all before finally getting back on our bikes. 


It was a quick ride and the next challenge awaited at the river crossing under the railway bridge. Luckily, the flow of water wasn’t as fierce and we decided to cross the river under the bridge on bikes itself and we were successful, although dead tired when we were back on the side of railway tracks this time. 

The passengers were back again on the bikes and we slowly made our way to colem. Our bike guide who was clearly fastest amongst all three of us was kind enough to wait for us every now and then throughout the journey so far but now he decided to make a dash leaving us both behind for this last league of the journey. He had been tremendously nice and helpful to all of us throughout, so we weren’t expecting anything more from him since we knew the way out from here anyway. After crossing almost 70% of the railway track ride, we saw our guide coming back to us from opposite side after dropping off our heaviest pillion and coming back to pick another one. We were absolutely baffled by his kindness as he went out of his duty to help us as he knew we both were dead tired riding triple seats all the way. 

The last one kilometer aside the railway tracks was extremely difficult for me as I lost all energy and had to stop repeatedly to regain the strength to navigate those small paths aside the railway tracks. My pillions were very understanding so at many times they got down and walked on the tracks for a few 100 meters while I used to get some rest. This created some wonderful picture opportunities for them.
Some wonderful clicks of Living Art at its finest by my cousin while walking on the railway tracks


The long ordeal finally came to end and we were out of the railway tracks now and back on decent safe roads. All of us regrouped by 6 pm. We tipped our guide generously before bidding final goodbyes and thanking him. I personally appreciated his riding in such difficult terrain especially considering he was one of shortest among all of us but carrying a pillion probably double his own weight. He was quick to compliment us back for our adventurous nature and he laughed aloud saying he still found it hard to believe we people were crazy enough to ride triple seat to dudhsagar on our own in monsoon season. With that we parted ways.

After filling our tummies with roadside chilli bhajiyas, we made the long journey back in dead of the night with rainfall still accompanying us every now and then. Luckily, cruising at decent speeds on super smooth Goan roads with just 1 pillion was not tiring at all after the predicament that we went through. We made back to our beach house by 10 pm and straight to bed after quick dinner. 

This was a ride to remember. My first real test as a biker. My first real trial run for my insane dream of riding to Leh Ladakh from Mumbai next year. I didn’t think I passed the test with flying colors, but I could convincingly say that I didn’t fail either.
She made it possible. Hats off to her

Cheers